A FRESH ANGLE : Favourite Eating Place

“These Penang people ah, teruk lah! Either they are on their way to dinner, actually having dinner, or on the way back from dinner!”

So said a friend after coming back from the fair island on a work trip. Well, I guess it’s not just the Penangites. It’s a Malaysian thing, isn’t it? Food is our culture, without a doubt.

I’m sure the average Malaysian waistline has expanded over the decades, for all age groups. Recuperating from strokes and other coronary ailments is fast becoming a national pastime. We even have school children becoming so bloated to the point of looking like Mongoloids.

And all because of food, glorious food! Well, we can’t blame ourselves, I guess. The boon – or bane – of our multiracial society is that the mix of cuisines is so extensive and catalytic. You find Malay stalls cooking great chicken rice, Indian restaurants serving nasi lemak, and Chinese seafood joints selling delectable fish head curry.

We, Budak Koleq are definitely not excluded from this predilection to gastronomic adventures. In fact, probably more so, since some of us sometimes bring home food which we hope to be cooked to our satisfaction. Hence, when MCOBs go out there into the world for a good time, good food joints is always an essential topic for discussion and debate. A good food joint will surely serve as the coup de grace, before you reluctantly get back to the rat race.

Different people have different preferences when it comes to cuisine. Some stick to time-tested food types whilst others are more exploratory in nature. This article is for the latter among you. I have tried to compile a list of good joints (compiled from personal experience as well as feedback from fellow 'Messng Committee' members) that you can try, on your travels over the Peninsula.

Anyway, here’s my list of top joints for you hungry anglers, arranged by state.

PERLIS

What better than to start with my home state? Well, you will forgive me if I tend to be over-indulgent!

Restoran Tok Mek: Situated just before the Timah Tasoh Lake, on the Kangar – Padang Besar trunk road. Serves great lunch food with Siamese – Kelantanese influence, plus large selection of local ulam. Awfully cheap too.

Pokok Sawa: This is actually a kampung lunch joint situated along Jalan Santan, a few kilometers east of Kangar. Simple but very tasty kampung cooking. Ask the locals for directions: everyone knows the place.

Seafood joint at Jalan Sekolah Derma; opposite Derma School. This is a converted house. Great seafood menu for dinner.

For those really adventurous among you, go to Padang Besar Bazaar, where several little stalls serve sup perut ayam (arrgh!). This is not a recommendation, since I have never tried the stuff, so you’re on your own here!

You can’t visit Perlis without trying the Kuala Perlis laksa, arguably the best this side of Vladivostok! Head for Kuala Perlis (where else?) at night, and take your pick from the row of stalls by the main road. In the day, try this old Chinese man in Ban Cheong Restoran, smack in the middle of Kangar.

KEDAH

Kuala Kedah: Kedahans will always say their laksa is the best, and Kuala Kedah is the place to go. Whilst Perlis laksa is more watery, the Kuala Kedah laksa has much more fishmeat content. Also try D’Perindu for mee udang.Incidently,this place and its branch D'Samudera, near the Kepala Batas Airport, is owned and runned by a MCOB(Zuegen, class of 76) and his entire family

Another place you should go is the small market town of Kodiang, home of pasembor, the turbo-charged version of rojak. In Alor Setar, head for Mee Abu at Jalan Teluk Wan Jah, for delectable mee rebus and fried kueh teow

PENANG

The Pearl of the Orient is home to the nasi kandar. In my childhood days, Dad used to take us to Kassim Nasi Kandar (near the Komtar Building). Nowadays, the in joint is Line Clear, a side-lane stall off Penang Road. My favourite dish there is telur sotong.

There’s also this quiet stall somewhere near the Kedah Sultan’s residence. The locals refer to this as “pokok buluh”, since there used to be a bamboo grove there. The fish head curry (the type with lots of coconut cream) and fried stuffed terubok is out of this world. It’s frequented by the office crowd, so do get there before lunchtime.

And then there’s Rudy’s, a stall opposite Novotel in Tanjung Bungah. Serves great fried kueh teow. If ever you meet Rudy himself, drop my name. We were schoolmates, heh heh!

Finally, there’s End Of The World Restaurant, a large seafood joint at the end (of course) of Teluk Bahang. After a sea fishing trip, anglers get their catch cooked here. Go for tenggiri, and you’ll know what I mean.

PERAK

In the frontier town of Gerik, there’s this mamak shop (Restoran Maulana, I think), that makes the best beef curry to go with crispy roti canai. My friend Zaman and I grew fat on that stuff!

In Kuala Kangsar, try Yut Loy Eating Shop on the main street. This is an institution. The best chicken chop, oriental beef steak and pau in the whole wide universe, no arguments! Legend has it that a member of our royalty once had the pining for Yut Loy’s pau, and ordered some to be sent to him…in London!

This little cendol stall (facing the Perak and Kangsar river confluence) also has the royal seal. The old mamak supplies the royal household in Chandan during official banquets.

For kampung style lunch involving local river fish, try Restoran Helmi at the riverside. Great tempoyak dishes.

In Ipoh, there’s this stall at the train station named Sabar Menanti. Very apt, for you have to queue up for your lunch. Good Malay fare.

For dinner, try the Scotch Pub and Restaurant behind IGB Plaza. Great mee goreng hailam, fried rice and ginger chicken downed with a lychee drink spiked with lime.

In Tapah, head for the stall beside the mosque. Loads of barbequed fish, including river ones, plus the customary ulam. As an alternative, try the Rest House. Food is not the best, but you have a relaxed atmosphere.

If you are somehow lost in Hutan Melintang (where?), there’s this old Chinese shop – one of those colonial concrete numbers – that serves awesome claypot assam pedas ikan sembilang and mantis prawn (yabbie) cooked in dried chilli. Ridiculously cheap too.

SELANGOR

Here’s something different. If you are passing by Serendah on your way north, there’s this little wooden stall on the left that sells fabulous Indian milk candy!

In Kuala Selangor, head north and over the long bridge. Turn left into the fishing village. At the fishermen’s jetty is a good seafood restaurant. Good food and ‘romantic night’ setting is assured.

Kuala Kubu Baru is a sleepy town that doesn’t offer much for the hungry angler. However, Restorant Muslim on the high street has very good curries to go with your roti canai.

Further up the mountain, there’s the Gap Rest House, one of my favourite stopovers for a Hainan meal in colonial setting.

In Tanjung Malim, a must is Yik Mun Restaurant, another Hainan joint, right at the traffic light of the old highway. Great fried rice and also chicken chops, tau foo and home-made soya drink.

Oh, yes, don’t forget Tow Foo Sportfishing Centre in Kundang. Some weird dishes like corned beef sandwich, the King’s burger and Chicken Alberto can be concocted by this chef who is almost the spitting image of Elvis!

NEGERI SEMBILAN

When in Port Dickson, try this place called Masrun, a stall near the Shell jetty. Killer tenggiri assam pedas is a main attraction. Further down the Teluk Kemang road and opposite the new hospital, there’s also this great seafood restaurant (sorry, can’t remember the name!).

I never found any joint of repute in Kuala Pilah, but if you go further down the road to Simpang Pertang, you will find a stall at the Juasseh turn-off. The beef stew will leave you smiling.

Further inland at Kuala Kelawang, there are two kopi tiam joints on the main street – one a proper shop while the other is a side-street stall. The latter is served by an ancient lady who is so meticulous in preparing your toast half-boiled eggs and teh ‘c’, it’s worth the wait!

MELAKA

If you are in Melaka town, there are a couple of good joints to visit. One of my favourites for dinner is this side stall in Kota Laksamana – behind the Baba - Nyonya House. You’ll have one of the best asam pedas experiences ever! Try the tenggiri asam pedas with nasi lemak. The belacan is a bit heavy, so you sinus sufferers better take your Clarinase pills!

Somewhat more upmarket is Jonkers, a converted nyonya house on Jalan Hang Jebat (formerly Jonker Street). Good nyonya food. I find myself regularly going there just for the cakes and coffee, and immerse myself in the surroundings.

For classic Malay fare, check out Gerai No. 35 along the Mahkota Parade road.

The road south of town leads to the famous ikan bakar areas of Pernu and Serkam. Popularity of particular stalls keep fluctuating, so you better ask the locals.

JOHOR

In Kluang, there is this shop near the railway station that serves great chicken rice. Go there early; it’s a favourite among the locals.

If you are heading south on the PLUS highway, take a break at the Pagoh R&R. Go over to Aladin’s stall. Order two bowls of his mee rebus – one is definitely not enough! And if he’s around, you can have a good chinwag, for he is also one of those crazed 'kaki pancing'that never fails to desribe his BIG catch

On the old road south to Muar, just before the big bridge, there’s a restaurant on the left that serves a solid dish of murtabak Singapore. Great stuff!

PAHANG

Let’s start with the transit town of Karak. This is one town where most people just pass by, but if you are in need of sustenance, try the stall opposite the Esso station. Good selection of nasi lemak.

Now for Kuantan. Cross the big bridge in town to Tanjung Lumpur. About a kilometer further on, you will find a group of seafood shops. In the afternoons, a few stalls will be selling lovely otak-otak and satar. The latter is a blend of fish meat and coconut shavings, wrapped in banana leaf and grilled. I could live on this stuff!

Further north in Cherating, try Nara Seafood restaurant, near the Holiday Villa. The creamy fish head curry is recommended.

At the old village of Kuala Kemaman (turn right before Kemaman town), you will find a stall selling delectable satar. It is different from the Kuantan satar. It’s more refined and less ‘fishy’. By the way, Kuala Kemaman is a good place to buy keropok.

TERENGGANU

A few miles up the road is the town of Kemaman. Right near the big junction into town is this awesome coffee shop called Hock Seng (I think!). You won’t miss it, anyway. At any time of the day, it is jam-packed with customers. You’ll find people standing, waiting for others to vacate their seats.

The attraction? Roti bakar and coffee! The former is especially yummy. They use burger-type buns laced with local kaya and butter. The pace in the shop is so hectic, there is a PA system for the towkay to call the orders to the kitchen. Some regulars can take over the mike to shout their massive orders. I heard one guy order 30 roti bakar!

Further into town there is a Chinese seafood shop facing the river. Try the butter prawns. They are so rich that you’d be a champ if you could eat half a dozen. Their other specialty is stuffed crabs.

I don’t know much about joints in Dungun and Kuala Terengganu. If you happen to come across one of those pasar malam, buy some of their nasi dagang. Cheap and tasty.

On the coastal road approaching the sleepy village of Penarik, there are stalls selling cicah; fried fish and sotong which you dip in the local sweet chilli sauce. This is a regular afternoon fare, here.

Somewhere near Jerteh on the road north to Besut, there is a shop on the left that sells only satay. It’s literally a factory: rows of the grills with electric fans at the ends. One taste of the barbequed meats, and you’ll know why dozens of cars are parked by the roadside.

KELANTAN

I don’t know enough of Kelantan, except for the places around Gua Musang. Even then, I have only found one shop to recommend. It’s on the main street heading to the train station. The menu is mainly authentic Thai. The kerabu mangga and tomyam will kill you! You don’t have to know the name of the shop; just ask the locals and they’ll show you!

Well, there you have it; my selection of choice eating places. I hope this will serve as a guide for distraction when you are on that long ‘cuti-cuti Malaysia’ trip. I’m sure you have your own favourite joints. Why don’t you write in and share your tips. You’d surely do a good favour to hungry MCOBs!