Mamak eatery guide

If it has yet to be done, someone should do a study on how mamak restaurants have re-invented themselves. It could be a lesson in business management in this fast-changing and fickle business environment.

From what were once uninspiring outlets dishing out mediocre fare, mamak restaurants have evolved into a cultural phenomenon.

There seem to be one operating at every corner, much like the pubs in England. In the city and the suburban areas, their fluorescent lights burn bright till the wee hours for a seemingly endless flow of patrons.

In the Klang Valley, at least, their ubiquitous yellow and green signages with its stars and moon logo with distinct Indian Muslim names such as Sayed,Taubat and Barraqah have become an entrenched part of Malaysians, just like the teh tarik they serve. Some have become neighbourhood hangouts and social meeting places.

To be sure, mamak restaurants have always been part of the nation’s social landscape, offering curry-based fare and nothing much else.

It is the development over the past five years or so that saw a seemingly tectonic change in the way the business is operated.

The re-invention of the mamak restaurants has resulted in it being widely accepted, both by the trendy set and families dining out. They fill the niche between the lower-end food stalls and the pricier joints.

And the increase in the number of new mamak restaurants as well as people patronising them came about quietly too. Word of mouth was and still is the prime mode of advertising.

Truth be told, the quality of food remains almost the same as before, meaning the restaurant with good nasi briani will continue to serve good nasi briani, and those with mediocre dhal curry will continue to be so.

But this time, they are serving the fare to more people. What has changed?

First, there has been an increase in effciency.

The mamak restaurants of today seem to be swarming with staff. One is assured of quick attention. The waiters bus the tables, get the order, and deliver the food and drinks in no time.

The first rule of the services industry is to keep the customer happy, which means quick service.

It used to be that the teh tariks come a standard sickly sweet, despite the “kurang manis” instruction. Now they are serve as per or close to customers’ requests.

However, the best part about these mamak stalls is the ambience. Food is cheap and delicious while the ambience is light and casual. You don't even need to dress up for it. Just walk in with your tees, shorts and sandals, and prepare for a night of great food, good conversation and lots of teh tarik. Given their ubiquity, it is hard to imagine life without the mamak stalls. Over the years, it has grown from a mere food joint to a common meeting ground for friends. This is where you can share the day's goings-on, catch up on the latest gossips or just chat. And this is one form for cheap entertainment for all Malaysians! The mamak restaurants have obviously adopted the fundamental business adage of “know your customers and give them what they want”. Some bigger and more sophisticated businesses can learn a thing or two from them on this score.

Second, products have been diversified.

The usual fare of old comprised overcooked vegetables, indistinguishable curry dishes, rice and of course, roti canai.

They are still being served but now more “exotic” dishes are being offered as well — nasi lemak, Thai dishes, steak and even expresso.

The diversification helps to make the mamak restaurants relevant to changing tastes and trends. It gives them access to a wider market, beyond the roti and curry crowd.

Third, substantial investment has been made.

Most mamak restaurants have undergone radical physical changes in the last few years. They are now better furnished, with some thought put into interior design, and the toilets are cleaner too.

Some mamak restaurants have gone a little upscale as well, with shiny marble flooring and uniformed employees. There are now some with open terraces, air-conditioned dining areas, and crowd-watching sections a la coffee joints.

Many though are still flouting local authority by-laws by putting tables on the five-foot ways.

Most mamak stalls offer satellite television, with sets strategically hung for patrons to watch the English Premier League or Formula 1 races. This sports bar-like atmosphere often means repeat patrons who stay longer and order more.

Fourth, transparency has improved.

Mamak restaurants of old were notorious for their “approximation” of bills. It has been alleged that patrons can be quoted different prices for the same things at different times.

Now prices are well displayed, and patrons are given an open tab by way of receipts that are updated with each new order. This effective billing system keeps patrons happy and removes much of the headache in computation.

Finally, financing has been diversified as well.

Previously a new mamak restaurant would be financed by a group of restaurant operators, who not only provide the funding but also the skilled and unskilled labour.

Now, they are known to have turned to conventional sources of financing. Talents like cooks have come to be valued and paid good money.

These are but some examples of the changes that the mamak restaurants have undergone, which are equally relevant to other businesses, not necessarily in the services sector.